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Jewelry metals 101

Today’s jewelry is not made from 100% pure precious metal. This is due to the physical and chemical properties of the ore, which is too soft to keep its own shape.

At the same time, we should not confuse a jewelry alloy with a costume jewelry alloy version: the first contains mostly precious metals, and to create the second, simple metals that do not have a high value are taken as a basis.

Different types of gold rings

Features of Gold

To understand what a jewelry alloy means, it is enough to know that no gold jewelry is 100% composed of gold ore.

Usually the elements of silver, copper, platinum, zinc, cadmium and nickel are included. The more platinum and silver in the gold mixture, the whiter the jewelry. And copper gives a red hue, giving the jewelry the strength it needs.

Gold turns purple when aluminum and gallium are included.

A blue tint is created when rubidium and indium are added. Steel inclusions give a bright blue hue.

Green is made when cadmium and silver are combined.

To this day, scientists are still experimenting with adding various metals to gold “solutions” to produce unique shades. 

The optimum pure gold content for jewelry is considered to be 58.5%.

The use of different alloys in jewelry is very wide, so it is often difficult to understand all the tags and hallmarks. 

Yellow gold

The traditional and most familiar to the eye color of gold is yellow. This is the color of the pure metal.

In jewelry, silver and copper are added to it. The more silver, the lighter the alloy. For a lemon color, the percentage of silver ligature is increased. For a warmer, sunnier color – copper.

On the amount of ligature – added metals – depends on the grade of gold. For example, 585 yellow gold, which is most often used for jewelry, is a metal with the addition of 28% silver and 13.5% copper.

Gold products of bright yellow color look less noble, and in quality they lose. They are made of an alloy of gold with copper, silver and palladium, this is the lowest grade – 375.

Three gold rings
Three white gold ring

White gold

Products of steel cold shade are slightly inferior in popularity to the sunny yellow color. White gold combines perfectly with diamonds, making their shine more expressive. Products without stones are also in honor: they suit everything, look noble and refined.

This color of metal is obtained by adding palladium, nickel, silver or platinum to gold. Alloy with platinum is the most valuable and durable, jewelry made of it is not scratched, is not deformed and retains its attractiveness for a long time.

The cheapest white gold is with nickel ligature. Jewelry made of such an alloy is much worse to wear, besides, it can cause allergies. Nickel gives white gold a slight yellowish color.

Red and rose gold

The alloy acquires such shades thanks to copper. Copper has a good effect on the properties of finished products, gives them strength and durability.

Do not confuse red and chervona gold. The first contains about 50% of copper ligature and has a frankly reddish color. The latter is named after chervonets – gold coins made of almost pure gold.

Romantic pink color usually indicates a 585 proof metal. It is made in these proportions: 14 parts gold, 7 or 8 parts copper, 2 or 3 parts silver.

Three rose gold rings

Hallmarks, or metal stamps

Important: Your piece of jewelry should have a hallmark attached. This hallmark has information about the maker and the supplier. 

In the USA, the information on a hallmark of a jewelry piece typically includes:

  1. Karat or metal fineness mark: This indicates the purity or fineness of the metal used in the jewelry. Common marks include “10K” to represent 10 karat gold (41.7% pure gold), “14K” for 14 karat gold (58.3% pure gold), and “18K” for 18 karat gold (75% pure gold). For silver, you may find “925” to represent sterling silver (92.5% pure silver).

  2. Trademark or maker’s mark: This is the symbol, initials, or name of the manufacturer, designer, or jewelry company responsible for producing the piece. It helps identify the source or origin of the jewelry.

  3. Responsibility mark: This is a mark or symbol that indicates the manufacturer or company claiming responsibility for the quality and accuracy of the metal content in the jewelry. It may be a unique logo or specific symbol associated with the maker.

It’s important to note that while the presence of the karat or fineness mark is required by law in the USA, the use of other marks such as the trademark or responsibility mark is optional. Additionally, some manufacturers may choose to include additional marks or symbols for branding or identification purposes.

Tips for metal allergy sufferers

A little secret from the jewelers. If you have a gold allergy, it’s most likely due to nickel. So as not to spoil your mood by not being able to wear jewelry, you should pay attention to platinum alloys. They are just as beautiful and expensive as gold. Among them, there are jewelry pieces with diamonds, sapphires, and other semi-precious stones.

If finances allow, you can buy products made of palladium. They are characterized by strength and durability. And they are also decorated with precious stones. And if palladium and platinum are not affordable, you can choose openwork silver items. There are a lot of them represented in all jewelry stores in the country.